Marni F/W 2016
The promise of youth and all that comes with it, was the overriding theme of a majestic show by Marni on a winter afternoon where Milan was suffused with bright sunlight.
Every so faintly unisex, the collection was crammed full of surgical smocks, tied at the back, not your typical shirt for a busy urban male. Indeed, when we met designer Consuelo Castiglioni backstage she was wearing a navy blue version of one of the aforementioned smocks.
The novelty of Castiglioni’s cutting impressed throughout with half the coats belted and buckled at their sides.
Marni – one of fashion’s greatest fur resources – also presented a pair of great coats, one in series of great stoles made in castorina, meaning baby beaver.
The show was also a salutary lesson in how important it is to get the soundtrack right. A dramatic track, entitled Passing By from Ulrich Schnauss, lent the exactly required quotient of drama that lifted this show from a mere display of clothes to a poignant comment. An aesthetic judgment on the charm of passing beauty and the special ability that youthful splendor has to make us all dream.