Louis Vuitton S/S 2017
A British moment in the French garden
It was ironic that, on a day when our British cousins were tying themselves in knots over whether to stay within Europe, Paris’ most beautiful garden, Palais Royal, was crammed full of UK celebrities attending a French luxury brand’s runway show.
David Beckham, Kate Moss, Rio Ferdinand and Paul Simonon, once bass player of The Clash, sat front row at the show – Kim Jones’ latest vision of haute gamme travel. But while the day’s political events turned out to be a historic watershed, with Britain voting to turn its back on Europe, the fashion on display however looked very familiar.
The same simple raincoats – albeit this season in Porosus crocodile or transparent dot-to-dot. The same slim banal suits and blazers, making for a predictable tailoring experience.
British-born Jones did break new ground with a half dozen mohair sweaters in giraffe motifs, some with wacky animal embroidery. But on a scorching day in central Paris these thick jumpers seemed odd summer choices. The designer did show some great new bags in ostrich and toile with Rhinoceros roaming across. Some print work was courtesy of the Dinos and Jake Chapman, both Brit artists. However, the overall influence of Africa – where Jones grew up – felt tepid and forced. It was a far cry from his great Masai collection, which was probably Jones’ best show to date at Vuitton. In a word, compared to the revolutionary ideas that his colleague Nicolas Ghesquière serves up at Vuitton’s women’s shows this all seemed like very modest fare.