Louis Vuitton F/W 2017
The Return of the Disco Dragoon
Italian designers spent last week dressing sporting guys for high altitude walks; this Thursday Louis Vuitton sat sporting gods in its front row.
The Milanese’ goal was to attire its clients for some wannabe Alpinists weekend; Vuitton’s menswear designer Kin Jones dresses sporting legends in uber rich outfits for after-work.
Staged inside a well-warmed tent within a freezing Palais Royal, with a cobalt blue sky evident through a transparent roof, the show attracted former English national soccer team and Manchester United stars David Beckham and Rio Ferdinand and All Black rugby out half and star of local Racing 92, Dan Carter, to the front-row. (And, yes, fans, Carter is as good looking in real life as he is on a rugger field.) Where Lewis Hamilton would have joined him; had the racecar driver not arrived 30 minutes late. Forced to sneak in a back entrance, he stood underneath a huge camera boom, videoing the show finale on his mobile phone. At least that provided a great view of DJ Honey Dijon, waxing the stacks with the best most kickin’ soundtrack so far of the Continental season.
On the catwalk; highly polished merchandise, for successful men who need a little pampering: generously cut vicuna trench coats; very cool silk pajamas with New York street scenes; and, above, some outstanding shearling lined Crocodile blousons.
Jones packed each look with fashion paraphernalia: cowhide leather charms; red Epi wallets; silver LV pendants and hoop earrings; Querelle berets with logo headband. All supported by crocodile leather sneakers or white hiking boots. The Vuitton Man is ready to march, but his highest altitude is a prize giving ceremony podium. Think a re-launch of Studio 54, seeing the amount of Disco Dragoons who prowled this catwalk. Jones even claimed that his inspiration was Hip Hop tailor Harlem’s Dapper Dan Day. And finished many looks with fanny bags and Japanese denim jackets and belt tags were marked Supreme – in a collaboration with that New York street style label.
Ebullient, perfectly made and defiantly commercial, yes. But also a tad too watered down for our taste. As someone who lived through the self-indulgence of the Me Decade of late 70s New York – from uptown and down – the collection all seemed just a little bland.