Kicking off our Milan coverage, we take a look at a savvy new triple L: A Link-up between Larusmiani and Lorenzi. A unique Italian meeting between cutting edge accessoires and razor-sharp tailoring.
What do you do when your name is Guglielmo Miani and your family has owned one of the most famous clothing stores in Milan for decades – founded in 1922 by his grandfather Guglielmo, to be precise – but somehow the men’s wear revolution taking place in Italy has bypassed you? Not forgetting that the family-owned flagship sits on one of the most coveted retail corners in the world; smack where Via Monte Napoleone meets via St. Andrea.
Here is what you do. You take a deep breath, hone your ambitions and learn the proper way. Running the family’s fabric and textile business for a few years – the Mianis were the first to import Vicuna – and building it significantly, Guglielmo has now decided to show the world his design and cutting chops. His elegant family store Larusmiani is no longer just a men’s haberdasher but now offers a full array of high-end men’s clothing; increasing amounts of it is true Italian men’s Haute Couture for discerning gents. Miani has lined up a classy list of proper tailors and botteghe in Tuscany to guarantee his customers a hundred percent made by hand experience and not by machine. Far too often people confuse the term made-to-measure with something special. But that term just means a machine-made suit where only the sleeves and pants are adjusted to the wearer. In the end what counts is the shoulder and the chest and only expert hands can measure this and then make a suit that fits like a glove. Miani has understood this and devoted himself to becoming a bona fide fashion man.
His latest, and smartest play to date, he has become a close buddy with Aldo Lorenzi over the years. Yes, that Aldo Lorenzi, the owner of G. Lorenzi, the legendary Milan institution – devoted to men’s bathroom, grooming and tony smoking habits. Closed in 2014, and since sadly replaced by an Omega watch store. A deal which netted the Lorenzi family a significant profit from selling the famed space – catty corner to Larusmiani as it happens. As a result, much of the famous product selection; from knives to desk accessories or smoking and toiletry articles to shaving kits, each piece made by hand, was sold. Some even reached the UK. Dunhill London bought some of the stock and exhibited it at a champagne fueled party in its Bourdon house shop during last January’s London men’s collection.
This is where signor Miani, a true-blue Milanese stepped in. Guglielmo felt that this typically Italian artisanship could not go to waste by being shipped abroad so he partnered up with Aldo Lorenzi to enhance the Larusmiani store. Adding to its fine tailoring and obsessive attention to detail. Basically saying his suits are like the knives, smoking articles and shaving kits, handcrafted with natural materials like wood, leather, copper, horn and brass. They both represent Italian savoir faire at its best.
“Our Christmas business was phenomenal with every famous Italian style icon coming in and buying gifts,” enthused Guglielmo on a phone interview shortly before he took off to California for his New Year’s vacation. “And knowing Aldo has been an amazing experience for me, he is like a second father to me.”
Showing that he clearly understands to use his prime real estate in a clever way, he also will host a book signing for the Sartorialist Scott Schuman on the first day of Milan men’s Saturday, January 16th at 4.30 pm. Stay tuned for the perfect meeting between sharp tailoring and gentlemanly equipment.