London Women’s Fashion Week Round Up F/W 2020
Things become clearer in London. There is a new king, a rising female star and a powerhouse established.
Whether being the big-ticket name for the Moncler Genius project, the designer that Bernard Arnault praises at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s year-end results conference, the men’s wear innovator who has been twisting male and female dressing concepts from the beginning or the designer in London who puts a stamp on the season. JW Anderson is no longer the young talent to watch but he has fully developed into a design reference himself. His new clothes were about making an entrance so the maxi volumes and shapes on his runway were more than memorable. Here is a designer with confidence who can even take the idea of a crumpled beer can and make a dress out of it.
Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry is the reason most editors and buyers cannot afford to skip the London season. And with his fourth show it has become clear that he is confident enough to express himself. Entitled “Memories” the show riffed on Tisci’s personal life and experiences and not so much the Burberry history. Hence the sex factor came back to life. Who else could make a corset in Burberry checks and put Kendall Jenner in it? Following Gabriela Hearst’s lead Burberry was certified as carbon neutral and Tisci flexed his showmanship muscle with a live performance by pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque featuring beautiful Philip Glass soundscapes.
Looks like Roksanda Ilinčić went to Frankfurt am Main and visited the Schirn Kunsthalle to see the impressive Lee Krasner show there over the New Year’s holidays. Or maybe not? But Krasner’s monochrome phase, where she worked at night and rejected color found its way into the collection via cotton taffeta to then make room for what Roksanda is best known for: Explosive colors in shades of grape, bordeaux, blueberry and orange. These times need optimism and the way Roksanda has moved to the forefront with her bold shapes and delicious colors has been noted.