Leibgericht #31: Boris Bidjan Saberi
When you are a purist in design only working with the best leather and Japanese fabrics, you certainly stick to the same approach when it comes to food. Mr. Saberi shares his way of preparing an XXL gamba and sucking the head of it, of course the best you can source
In a way, Barcelona is still the secret food capital of the world because Ferran Adrià and his brothers run their famous food laboratory here and even if El Bulli has closed, Barcelona is full of El Bulli alumni cooking up a storm like chef Rafa Zafra at Restaurant Estimar. No wonder Saberi has infiltrated this gastro scene, as there are several parallels to his work as well. Let it be said, at Achtung Mode we firmly believe that fashion designers and top chefs are of the same ilk. They use top ingredients, their fantasy and artisanal skills to create something new. Either to be worn or to be eaten. The chef presents a new seasonal menu, the designer has a catwalk show. Things that appeal to the core of the human being and his basic needs of shelter and food. The product is always king. After Saberi accepted our invitation to prepare his Leibgericht for us, he immediately reached out to Anna Gotanegra who is based in Roses in Girona. Yes, the small town on the Costa Brava, which was made world famous because El Bulli was located there. The Gotanegras run a revered fish supply and employ the best fishermen and divers to supply Barcelona’s and Spain’s top chefs. Our Gambas XXL were courtesy of Restaurant Estimar (www.restaurantestimar.com) in the Born district where Boris is a regular. It is called La Reina de las Gambas, no translation necessary.
1. Smell gamba and make sure there is no odor, then you know it’s fresh as hell.
2. Cover cast iron pan in coarse sea salt and heat on highest flame to allow heat to enter the gamba gently through the salt layer.
3. When salt has formed a crust, place gamba in pan and remember, never wash fish. Fish is washed by the sea.
4. Keep gamba in pan on high heat for two minutes on each side so head is perfectly warm to suck and tail still medium raw.
5. When meat slightly turns color, take off heat and serve.
6. Place gamba on platter and add nothing. Twist off head and suck.
Boris served a natural white wine from Italy called Egesta from Aldo Viola winery in Sicily. A seriously intriguing juice with lots of herbal and fruity notes that washes down like, yes, grape juice.
Keeping things simple, or maybe not, the hard-core purist used four different types of tomatoes to make his Pa amb Tomàquet: Rosa, Raf, Tomate of Montserrat and Kumat on a Pan de Cristal from his local baker and a top notch olive oil for 20 euros the bottle from his buddies.
Erstmals erschienen in Achtung Mode Ausgabe 34, September 2017.