Achtung Digital looks to London: LCM Pieter Spring 2016
An insight into Jil Sander trained Sebastiaan Pieter's tailoring
Now in its fourth season at London Collections Men, Pieter focuses on quietly subverting masculine tailoring, infusing a traditional craft with the energy of sportswear. Here, five things to know about the Spring 2016 collection by Sebastiaan Pieter, his first presentation with NEWGEN sponsorship.
Jil Sander and German Minimalism
A 2012 graduate of London College of Fashion’s bespoke tailoring degree, the Holland born and bred designer honed his skills at Jil Sander. While not working with the brand’s founder herself, Pieter experienced two designers’ interpretation of the original minimalist’s much-cited archive, directed by Raf Simons and head designer Paul Surridge, former assistant to Neil Barrett at Prada. ‘I still love what that label stood for’, says Pieter when asked about his feelings about the brand. In his own collection, Sander’s influences can be found in surface decorations reduced to a bare minimum, precisely placed details and a focus on wearability. Above all, Sebastiaan Pieter shares Jil Sander’s attention for immaculate materials, to this end sourcing fabrics in Italy and Japan. These include permanently creased woolens and elasticated suiting fabrics.
Pieter Spring 2016 features several logos and monograms, reminding of everyday sportswear. However, in the collection these are easily missed upon first looking at the garments. Made of grey thread embroidery and placed on grey jersey material, camouflaged monograms are the antithesis of overt branding.
A muted colour palette evokes the colours we encounter in everyday urban life. Layering slate grey and a tinted, dusty blue, outfits remind of inner city architecture; high-rise buildings made of concrete and sprawling glass facades.
In addition to many zip details, from closing pockets on a black jacket to fastening a grey cotton boiler suit and collar-less shirts, Pieter collaborated for the second time with Husam El Odeh, a German born jewellery designer, who studied at the Berlin based University of the Arts (UdK) and has been collaborating with numerous high profile brands including Acne, Pringle of Scotland and Marios Schwab. Trousers and jackets are seemingly held together by silver hardware in the shape of metal rings. But instead of shiny embellishment, these rings remind of practical hardware found in original workwear and chore garments.
While the colours of Pieter’s Spring 2016 collection evoke the architectural maze of modern cities, cuts and silhouette reinterpret inhabitants’ daily uniforms. Suit jackets are reversible and pair of blue trousers gapes open at the ankle, the silhouette reminding of Adidas’ iconic tracksuit designs, albeit combined with traditional tailoring techniques. The collection’s presentation itself, a static installation taking over a large room at the end of an all white corridor snaking through Holborn’s Victoria House, reminded of purpose built gyms. Lounging on shiny black workout mats, seated astride elevated black cubes and resting, back against stark white plaster columns, the group of models appeared to be athletes taking a break from strenuous practice.