A new location but familiarly brilliant cinematic lighting for a raw and gutsy show for Lanvin by Lucas Ossendrijver, his 10th anniversary collection for the famed fashion house.
The designer went for a mature cast; their faces more lived-in – like the clothes – than the usual teenager gang seen in far too many shows this season. Lots of long hair, an even scruffy aspect, and a good deal less of the romanticism that characterized Lanvin men when he was working along side Alber Elbaz, the overall creative director abruptly fired by the house three months ago.
Ossendrijver has always had plenty of design chops; and can cut it up with the best of them. Case in point – several really cool great coats with piratical belts that began inside the coat before wrapping around the hip. Excellent split suits with voluminous pants and lapel-free jackets and reversible dusters done in Prince of Wales and crinkly canvas. All anchored by abstract expressionist chunky sneakers and Peaky blinders brogues on a cast with wrists covered raw cotton straps and jangling golden keys, and it made for a plucky statement.
Fed up with finding out half the models in Paris were 15 year olds from Sweden, Ossendrijver wanted more self-assurance in his models.
“It’s been quite a journey. I really wanted to concentrate on my work. The detail that goes into it. The construction. How we play passionately to detail. That’s why I wanted this season for people to be close. So the lights are low, the runway is narrow. It’s kind of small in a big space. I wanted people to almost touch the clothes. And then be touched by the clothes,” said the designer in his show in a huge warehouse in La Villette, under massive feature film Arri lightning. When Lucas started men’s he had a very small show in the Hotel Crillon, supported by one assistant. Today it’s a major show on the international calendar, a attribute to his ideas and energy.
But what next for the house’s women’s line?
“Oh, everyone keeps on asking what we will do. Who knows when I can say anything, or what I can but we hope it should be pretty soon,” said the house’s owner Madame Shaw-Lan Wang, chuckling with a regal wave of her two fore fingers. Well, if you don’t know honey, who does?