Fashion with a Capital F
Just when you thought Lanvin was running out of steam in the sensitive male groove it’s been working these last few years, when the house comes along and socks you with a great collection, crammed with of-the-moment clothes.
Streamlined, silky and finished with the signature Lanvin tattered trim this was a memorable performance for men on the move, guys dashing around town, but with a certain sassy effortlessness.
“Simplicity and humility. Luxury does not have to be grand,” explained Lanvin’s men’s director Lucas Ossendrijver putting his hands high in the air. “Before luxury meant having a chauffeur. Now gentlemen travel by Uber or take a Vélib bicycle. That’s modern living to me, and we have to make fashion for our times.”
Staged on a wet Sunday morning in a Beaux Arts kitted out with dry ice, the models marched out rapidly attired in splendid redingotes, their backs finished with semi-transparent organza; their edges frayed. In a New Wave moment ties were cut skinny, as were pants. All looks were anchored by pointy posh rocker boots or some natty new ergonomic sneakers, with tops done in grommeted leather. Accessorized with hipster jazz musician skinny metal necklaces or the new must-have graphic clip, and presented on an astute casting of brainy rocker types, it made for a fresh look that managed to combine class with dash.
Ossendrijver’s savvy tailoring skills were apparent in a series of eye-catching mini fracks, all done in the soulful somber palette of the collection: petrol blues, smoky anthracite, deep pearl and faded burgundy.
He took his bow with Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz, who in a sporting gesture left Ossendrijver do all the press interviews. They both appeared on the catwalk via a backdrop of two security doors, the first double the size of the second, a fitting image for a house whose logo is the mother and child; grand and petit together, rather like this collection.