Kenzo S/S 2016
Lunar Landscape Looks
In a Paris season marred by continual waves of attacks by taxi drivers on fashion’s preferred method of urban travel – Uber – we witnessed an entire season almost single single-handedly devoted to one tribe, the modern global nomad.
Few houses did so more gutsily than Kenzo. Raiders of the Lost Arc went into outer space on Saturday at the latest grand runway display by the house’s design duo – Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.
Staged in the latest far flung warehouse that tickled the fancy of this pair, the set was a beautiful morning image. In this case, a lunar landscape, replete with giant concrete boulders and crystals, its huge sandy catwalk covered in volcanic rubble.
Through which marched well travelled youths in a boxy silhouette; their tunics, jackets and parkas, all tied up with drawstrings cut and sewn at graphic angles. Done in panels of color in techy cottons and super light nylons it made for a strong vision and highly saleable merchandise. Their accessory of choice? The mega backpack – in this case containing so many pockets they looked like grain silos.
Asked why his T-Shirt and lots of looks in the show carried the word Pull, Humberto chuckled. “It’s about pulling things apart; sexy distortion,” Leon said, standing beside creative partner Lim, as the lights went down on their empty desert.