Joseph S/S 2017
Modern Nomadic Mode
It’s ironic that at a moment when the United Kingdom looks like it may well vote itself out of Europe, that the biggest single theme in London Collections Men has been nomadic fashion. At Joseph, one entered the brand’s presentation via a darkened entrance in which was projected a film about an urban nomad living seamlessly between London and Paris. Entitled Everyman, and made by Vincent Lacrocq and Kristell Chenut, the film seems to float about the streets of each city. Ideal images for a collection since work wear is the wickedly wonderful source of inspiration at Joseph this season.
One sensed dockers, barrel carriers, airmen, and reconnaissance officers in these hyper wearable designed by the house’s menswear creator Mark Howard Thomas. What seems like intrinsically simple clothes had all gone through complex processes, from stone and enzyme washes that subtly broke down many fabrics. Moreover, Thomas tweaked lots of clever pieces – most impressively reversible blousons – with contrasting pockets, trimmed with sporty strips.
“We wanted everything to be worn, lived in and with a soft feeling”, noted Thomas. He called the mood trans-season – like super parachute nylon and cotton trenches that managed to be sturdy yet lightweight – with puffering along the seams. Or light-double face cashmere jerkins – not exactly a summer fabric but ideal for a chilly night. Also impressive were interior shearling liners originally for pilots that became smart lapel free jackets and vests; along with great white denim trenches.
All of them just right for the modern nomads obsessing London menswear designers. And, hopefully, in two weeks time after the June 23 referendum, they will all still be European nomads and not just Little England ones.