Jil Sander F/W 2015

Jil Sander has a new look

One of the reasons we started Achtung Mode was to establish a strong German-inflected voice in fashion magazines. That was in 2003 and Jil Sander and Helmut Lang were having huge influences on the international fashion world with their Hamburg and Vienna-influenced clothes and design languages. We thought why not have a magazine which shares a similar aesthetic based on German culture? After all Germany has had a fair share of artists and photographers with international impact. Fashion magazines were not considered amongst that. So Jil Sander’s reign, which had a few interruptions and saw her coming back to her own label three times, ended again last year when it was clear she would not come back a fourth time. Let’s just say she is our designer icon.

After a season of design teams making the clothes, a new designer, Rodolfo Paglialunga, was installed. While we didn’t like his debut for Jil Sander last season where he tried too hard to interpret the Jil Sander codes and ended up making a collection of Italian sportswear, we realized after his Janaury men’s show that he is up to something new for the venerable Hamburg fashion house. In his first men’s collection ever, he stuck to the impressive silhouettes the house is famous for but added his own twist: a sense for great coloring and subtle tailoring with high-waisted, pleated pants.

For his second women’s collection he continued injecting color just as Raf Simons did with his acid hues, when he was the designer at the house. But Paglialunga, an Italian trained by Miuccia Prada, has his own palette and for him it’s more about adding flashes like a bright orange belt or a yellow turtleneck under a long statement coat. He seems to have avoided the archives and relied on his own vision for Sander: detailed tailoring, high waist line pants and more skin, as in deep V-necks on cool dresses. We think this is a much-needed new vision for Sander that we fully support. Even if we’d like to see Jil Sander come back to fashion in one way or another, maybe Uniqlo should ask her to come back?