Jil Sander F/W 2016

Military Minimalism

Turns out Rodolfo Paglialunga can create perfectly fine classic Jil Sander minimalism, in all the austerity and mono-color that traditionalists expect.

Channeling Germanic uniforms and even Middle Ages silhouettes, the show opened with a great series of topcoats cut with midi buckles, side vents and rouched backs. Many finished with Sam Browne belts – a classic cartridge belt complete with a diagonal strap over the shoulder.

The Sam Browne belt was a key element Jil Sander
The Sam Browne belt was a key element

Worn by tussle-haired models their necks elongated with Prussian officer collars that buckled up to their jawline. “A lot of military, a little medieval and even some Game of Thrones,” laughed Paglialunga.

This black leather coat reeks of German minimalism not military Jil Sander
This black leather coat reeks of German minimalism not military

For casual moments, however, he changed gear with elongated leather smocks, or skinny drainpipe pants and tight undertaker jackets in streaky black. Finished with fur stoles and massive scarves in rabbit and cable wool it was a welcome counterblast to his recent shows that looked a tad too much like Italian sportswear. For this return to German roots and the posh public school boy of the founder’s aesthetic all looked great.