Jil Sander F/W 2015

A new Jil Sander moment is here

Turns out an Italian can create perfectly fine minimalist tailoring for German’s most modernist label.

What a color, what a coat Jil Sander
What a color, what a coat

 

We’re talking about Rodolfo Paglialunga at Jil Sander, where the southern Italian – he was born in the charming city of Macerata, whose famed Jesuit mathematician son, Matteo Ricci was the first westerner to enter Beijing back in 1601 – succinctly tapped into the legendary north German DNA.

 

Double-breasted is a must for men now Jil Sander
Double-breasted is a must for men now

What worked best were the posh Metropolis moments – a belted coat where the belt buckle was in the same felt wool as the whole outfit; or a Capri blue spy coat. Or, most memorable of all the elongated Icelandic cannery worker tunic paired with duffle bag and tote in the same sleek black leather.

Sleek sportswear Jil Sander
Sleek sportswear

 

The collection also had wonderful pants in stiff wool fabrics with a big reverse pleat that ran into the trouser crease to make for a high tailoring moment.

 

This is what we call a showpiece Jil Sander
This is what we call a showpiece

A pity, the truly odd overhead lighting reduced the ambience to a mirthless murkiness. Though not enough, fortunately to prevent one appreciating a very fine collection of outer wear. Indeed, the selection of coats were the heart of the matter in an impressive debut by Paglialunga. He, remarkably given his long career, has never designed a men’s collection before.

 

Jil Sander’s new pleated pant
Jil Sander’s new pleated pant

“I wanted to show that real men, can dress for the street and for daily life and still look beautiful,” opined the designer in a crowded backstage. You did, Rodolfo, you did.