Hermès S/S 2017
Talk about a pure statement of modern elegance at Hermès
It was the classiest show on the Paris calendar and a gentle fashion moment, which ironically climaxed with a brilliant series of looks in that key element of the Hippie and Counter Culture era: tie-dye.
All told, it was a special meeting of the high level artisanal skills of this storied house and the roaming imagination of its men’s creative director Veronique Nichanian. She riffed on tie-dye in silk, wool, cashmere and, most remarkably, suede. Debuting the idea with clinging cashmere knits with tie-dye circles, and moving on to super cool silk zippered jerkins and triumphing with a natty, dismantled tie-dye suede look. Making tie-dye in the old method, of crumpling and tying fabric, before dying and even, in the case of the suede – running the fabric through a washing machine.
“Lightness, levity and even, why not, a little euphoria,” smiled Nichanian after the show staged in the bucolic garden of the École de la Medicine in the French intellectuals’ favorite quartier – St Germain. Her knits were also impeccable, whether Silex cotton and cashmere blends with unbuttoned v-necks or a splendid cashmere cardigan dotted with a few Argyle lozenges.
One element that we shall always admire at Hermès is the way the house treats many fabrics as if they were leather; cutting large pockets and using saddle stitching. Or employing leather where one traditionally expects softer materials – like the superb glove lambskin cardigan with top stitching that opened this show. Hyper distinguished on tousle-haired young models, and sure to be equally flattering on an older gent. Same thing is true for a blouson in putty suede with color blocking at the front and a knit back. A collection where the panache was a meeting of sublime skills and Parisian panache.