Hermès S/S 2017

Talk about a pure statement of modern elegance at Hermès

It was the classiest show on the Paris calendar and a gentle fashion moment, which ironically climaxed with a brilliant series of looks in that key element of the Hippie and Counter Culture era: tie-dye.

Tie-dye at Hermès SS 17

All told, it was a special meeting of the high level artisanal skills of this storied house and the roaming imagination of its men’s creative director Veronique Nichanian. She riffed on tie-dye in silk, wool, cashmere and, most remarkably, suede. Debuting the idea with clinging cashmere knits with tie-dye circles, and moving on to super cool silk zippered jerkins and triumphing with a natty, dismantled tie-dye suede look. Making tie-dye in the old method, of crumpling and tying fabric, before dying and even, in the case of the suede – running the fabric through a washing machine.

Hermès´impeccable usage of leather

“Lightness, levity and even, why not, a little euphoria,” smiled Nichanian after the show staged in the bucolic garden of the École de la Medicine in the French intellectuals’ favorite quartier – St Germain. Her knits were also impeccable, whether Silex cotton and cashmere blends with unbuttoned v-necks or a splendid cashmere cardigan dotted with a few Argyle lozenges.

The opening look at Hermès SS 17

One element that we shall always admire at Hermès is the way the house treats many fabrics as if they were leather; cutting large pockets and using saddle stitching. Or employing leather where one traditionally expects softer materials – like the superb glove lambskin cardigan with top stitching that opened this show. Hyper distinguished on tousle-haired young models, and sure to be equally flattering on an older gent. Same thing is true for a blouson in putty suede with color blocking at the front and a knit back. A collection where the panache was a meeting of sublime skills and Parisian panache.