Hermès F/W 2017
Whispering Outdoor Luxury
Not that much fashion news – though lots of truly elegant clothes at Hermès, where designer Veronique Nichanian’s latest collection was an astute exposition of contemporary understatement.
On a weekend of sartorial banality and political mayhem on TV courtesy of events in Washington, it was educational – from the aesthetic point of view – to attend this Hermès show where the whole point of the exercise was creating clothes of distinction that merited a nod of approval from an aficionado – not the thumbs up of a chancer.
For the Hermès gent, Nichanian cut a majestic new six-button suit; either in charcoal flannel or a perfectly judged velvet that perfectly balanced classicism with contemporary cool. She cut a car coat ever so askew – with the central buttons displaced two inches – to add a sense of modern nobility. And, she worked her fabric resources and ateliers with true panache – most notably cutting cable patterns into a sheepskin blouson, in a brilliant men’s couture statement. Trophy pieces for a great wardrobe
Playing on the house’s DNA, she sent out a couple of mega men’s Haute-à-Courroies bags composed of gray felt and trimmed in Togo calfskin. “Contrasting volumes,” said Nichanian, after a salutary lesson on the art of cutting, and the importance of truly refined taste.