Hello, Hermes!

The King of Nonchalant Haute Gamme

There is an art to knowing how to be elegant and thoroughly at ease all at the same time. And its greatest exponent is Veronique Nichanian, menswear designer of Hermès.

“This season was all about investigating all the colors of darkness,” quipped Veronique, after her stellar menswear show in Paris.

Her intention was clear from the invite and seating. The first – a black ticket that faded to dull Prussian blue. The second – the seating in the Palais de Tokyo, a collection of school chairs in various shades of black and gray.

From divinely well-cut winter silk jackets and flowing deerskin 007 dusters, to black and midnight blue faux camouflage bomber jackets to an absolutely delightful silk cocktail hour shirt, this was our old pal Nichanian completely on her A Game.

Even a crocodile puffer felt light, no easy task given the bold surface. And in a season almost bereft of black models, Hermès featured three – one in a notably chic outfit, a double-breasted redingote trimmed with aged leather piping that reeked rich assurance.

Here’s another thing, our vote for the best-attired CEOs in the entire menswear industry season? It goes to the three cousins of the new generation now managing Hermès – Pierre Alexis Dumas, Axel Dumas and Henri Paul Bauer. Quietly elegant, with just the right dosage of moneyed French cool. And, another win for Nichanian.