Gucci F/W 2015
New Gucci is about real life
After a controversial men’s wear debut in January, all eyes were on Gucci’s new designer Alessandro Michele’s women’s show. Michele did not disappoint or let the huge pressure get the better of him; in fact, he pulled of a hit show. Why? He anchored the collection in androgyny land, a place where many designers have traveled to over the years, generally not successfully. But with Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy and Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent current gender bending leanings, it’s a place where the fashion world’s leading brands are at home and achieving great sales. Gucci needed a new momentum, an input from a designer that makes people talk about the brand again and here it was.
See through lace shifts, fur-lined loafer sandals, big nerd glasses, red leather, pleated tailoring and lots of jewelry. Michele models his collections very much after his own personal taste which speaks volumes about his self confidence. And at the end of the day, this is the most important trait a modern designer needs to show or possess: Absolute faith in one’s ideas, no wavering from the plot by listening to too many advisors and executives. Just doing it.
Every model wore loads of jewelry, three to four rings on each hand just like Michele sports himself. When asked about the androgyny on his runway, he simply replied: “It’s life, now.“ No better quote to explain the task of how he plans to re-ignite Kering group’s biggest profit maker Gucci. Other designers might have sourced the archives or looked at stylish eras of the past, Michele uses his own life and experiences to conjure up these new Gucci clothes. We think this is what the brand needed.