Gucci F/W 2016
Poetic Mash up
The collision of culture, codes, color and cool that is Gucci under Alessandro Michele who reached new heights Monday lunchtime with a collection – indeed, single looks – that incorporated Cockney London characters, Chinese dragoons and Wild West gunslingers – sometimes in the same look.
Though his favorite leitmotif is a beetle, which marched in colorful beading and crystal over the backs of cowboy denim jackets or outlandish frayed cabans made of medieval motif kicking fabrics. The insect even appeared in glass laboratory slides, used as the wackiest show invitation we’ve seen in years.
Yet, while defiantly eclectic, Michele is incredibly consistent. His favorite fabrics and colors rippled across the catwalk – from pink floral toile de jouy suits lime kicking fabrics fracks, apalosa rawhide capes or cape like dressing trimmed with the phrase L’Aveugle par l’amour, or blinded by love. All topped by undertaker hats or Himalayan skullcaps.
Entitled “Poetic Reactivation”, the collection was presented in Gucci’s new former train station show-space done entirely in blood red. Armchairs, carpet, walls, columns and dry ice at the finale. Even, the show notes, which included quotes by philosophers as diverse as like Walter Benjamin and Mikhail Bakunin.
“Beauty often has a creepy side, and I like that,” explained Michele, who termed the assemblage, “resurfacing epiphanies.”
Shown with a gang of his bohemian fantasy girls – in silk coats covered in beaded insects, this was the example of the designers bold reinvention of Gucci. CEO Marco Bizzari brushed rumors that the very extremity of the fashion was finding resistance by consumers aside. He acted supremely confident about the brand’s future.
These are all very demanding, attention-seeking clothes, but judging from the huge numbers of fashionistas wearing Gucci this season it has certainly gained an audience among industry insiders.