Gucci Cruise 2018
Few of our favorite things from Alessandro Michele’s Rock'n Roll Renaissance collection
Let’s think back, January 2015, more than two years ago from now when Alessandro Michele took over at the helm of Gucci. If we remember well, he only had a few weeks to put together that men’s collection and already then he vowed with his all-inclusive vision of beauty and hyper embellishment, picking silhouettes and inspirations from all fashion eras, which has become his trademark. Now we have been on his idiosyncratic Gucci Cruise for 28 months and it’s time to see how far the Gucci ship has steamed. The first critics say that nearly every collection looks the same but we don’t agree. In fact, it seems that Michele is now looking to expand the brand categories on the runway. More luxe outerwear, more streetwear, more denim and even sportswear next to the shiny fabrics in the dresses that often make you think of Studio 54.
What was smart here?
Bringing the collection to Florence, the origin of the brand was a clever move. After trips to New York and Westminster Abbey in the previous cruise collections it was nice to see the Renaissance mind of this Roman designer connect with the capital of Renaissance. Alessandro called it Rock’n’ Roll Renaissance. A great year for Florence, that is seeing a kind of revival with acclaimed TV shows like The Medici, showing off the city’s wonders, while Pitti Uomo is getting stronger and stronger and what good timing for this return of Gucci.
The best looks?
It seems that Michele is determined to own the disco dress category. Puffed sleeves, multi layer fabric gowns, hardcore pink colors and lots of shiny chiffons and silks are always the highlight. Standout was the look on our very own model Lina from Berlin who rocked a lime green silk gown featuring multiple bows and with a peek a boo décolleté section. To underscore his commitment to individual beauty, Lina had the round of her face covered in pearls.
What happened after the show?
Michele loves to create a full on experience for his guests. So not only were we treated to the show, no, we also were allowed to access and walk through the hidden and secret path of the Corridoio Vasariano to the Boboli Gardens, an open-air museum in the heart of Florence once owned by the Medici family. The Corridor is a hidden passage which connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Palazzo Pitti based on the idea that the Grand Duke Cosimo I could move freely between his residence and the government palace as, like most monarchs of the period, he felt insecure in public. Gucci afforded its guests the privilege to be a Grand Duke for a day. At night, Michele took us to Serre Torrigiani, a lush summer garden for al fresco dinner and then brought on a live concert by Beth Ditto. Wow.
Also, here things are off-beat and eclectic but consistent. As always there was Jared Leto, his muse. He was joined by Soko and Fargo Netflix stars Kirsten Dunst and fiancé Jesse Plemons. A-list actress Salma Hayek was joined by husband and Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault. In line with the renaissance theme, star of the Medici series, Italian actress Miriam Leone was also present.
Models to look out for?
We were happy to see blue-haired Mae Lapres from Marilyn Agency on the runway, recently featured in our Achtung 33 Nouvelle Vague story. There was also new comer and German born Hubert Ramsel making his debut in the fashion scene.