Weil wir glauben, dass guter Geschmack sich nicht nur in Sachen Kleidern äußert, bitten wir seit Achtung Ausgabe Eins Keyplayer der Modewelt, für uns ihr Leibgericht zu kochen. Wir zeigen, was die Fashion-Branche wirklich isst.

Der irische Modejournalist Godfrey Deeny ist in Deutschland kein Unbekannter mehr. Sein zuletzt im Stern erschienener Artikel über die Berliner Modewoche brachte die hochfliegenden Ambitionen der Spreemetropole auf den Boden der Tatsachen zurück: sprich Nummer Neun, direkt vor Moskau und hinter Rio de Janeiro. Deeny schreibt regelmäßig für die Welt am Sonntag, die deutsche Elle und hier bei Achtung. Der ehemalige Chefredakteur von Vogue Hommes International hat auch lange in Italien gelebt und dort seine Affinität für Pasta weiterentwickelt. Hier seine famous Farfalle alla Goffredo, die durch das Vintage-Olivenöl eines Freundes aus der Provence die entschieden scharfe Note erhalten. Mit dem Rezept gestaltet er auch seine berühmten Late Night Pasta Diners, mit denen er Models, Stylisten, Modejournalisten und Designer wieder schauentauglich macht.

Farfalle à la Goffredo

I first got started on this dish thanks to old flame, an art director called Jeanie. She told me about a great Bachelor’s Pasta, which I could easily make and enjoy, especially like every fashionistas who loves football, I like to mimic a professional’s diet, i.e. pasta several days a week. With hindsight, it was her way of telegraphing that she did not think I was committed enough to our relationship. Anyway, I later refined it in several ways, and created by own version, which I have modestly named, Farfalle alla Goffredo, as it tastes different than an pasta I ever tasted in Italy, where I lived for five years. Like a good iconoclast, I like garlic and the zucchini a tiny bit burnt — which Italians don’t agree with at all — and throw Parmesan on this shrimp dish, something Italians abhor. Putting Parmesan on any fish or crustacean is usually regarded as a human right offence. Most of the time it is, but not with this dish.

Ingredients for a dish that feeds four:

  • 1/2 kilo of Farfalle, only use an Italian Brand, like Barilla
  • 1/2 kilo of gambas, best three inches (10cm) long
  • Two decent sized zucchini or courgettes
  • Half a cup of oil, ideally a gift from a friend who makes his own — mine came from Ermioni in the Peloponnese, where my pal Nicholas Boubel has invited me this November to participate in the olive harvest on his lot of one hectare.
  • Two cloves of fresh garlic
  • Two peperoncino, or as they are sometimes known, Tuscan peppers. (If you cannot get the real thing in an Italian mercado, a small hot pepper will do)
  • Large squirt of Pana da Cucina or crème fraiche

Cooking:

Fry the garlic and the peperoncino in the oil until the garlic is just about to burn. Throw on the two courgettes, cut Julienne style, i.e. into little chips, on a hot flame, gradually reducing it. Courgettes take about 15 minutes to cook, and a few should burn. Separately, blanche the gambas, peel and cut into thirds.

Mix these and the cream into courgette sauce for just three minutes at the end on a low flame. Fold all these into the strained pasta and serve with a good hit of ground black pepper, and a knob of butter. Serve in a large bowl with freshly grated Parmesan.

Enjoy with a good white, Pokily Fumé or Meursault in the summer, or, iconoclastically again, with a hearty Shiraz in the winter. I promise that compliments will follow, though maybe not commitment.

Erstmals erschienen in Achtung Mode Ausgabe 14, September 2009.