Givenchy S/S 2016
His Own, Too Familiar Jesus
Lots of dramatic imagery, plenty of clever staging and frequently passages of chic and clever clothes, yet ultimately the latest collection by Riccardo Tisci felt like a formulaic retreading of already seen ideas from this designer.
We’ve seen Jesus Christ countless times on the Givenchy catwalk, and by now we are very, very conversant with Tisci’s gang of gentlemanly toughs.
Sturm und drang blasts of sound courtesy of The Martinez Brothers opened the proceedings, as the cast strode around the cobble stones of a 15th arrondissement park, rising on a series of steel steps occasionally for more theatrical effect. It all looked manly and, if you had never been to a Givenchy show before, very much a statement of high fashion from a legendary Paris brand. No wonder over a thousand fans and male model groupies clung to the railings outside, a testament to Givenchy’s heat.
Men in cleverly cut knit kilts, worn with perfectly cut fine wool redingotes some boasting a great new accessory: silver keys so large they looked like they were culled from a Frankenstein film set, which dangled from neck or wrist. Then, we are afraid, we must have seen a dozen suffering Christs – plastered all over see-through sweatshirts, denim tunics and even chalk stripes pants. The Good Lord in various stages of pain, before he was suddenly replaced with a series of damsels; 11 haute couture looks, most notably some very naughty boudoir outfits of micro bustiers, lace T-Shirts, tights, garters and skimpy knickers. Jesus atoning for the sins of these sensual sinners. Naomi Campbell made a fabulous tour, but we would have counted on several hands the tried and tested ideas from previous men’s wear Givenchy shows.
In a word, for those of us acquainted with Tisci’s menswear for Givenchy, this was all far too familiar. So much so as to be almost a cliché, which is something we thought we’d never write about dear Riccardo.