Givenchy F/W 2017
Tisci is moving Givenchy into more colorful territory
The American Western encountered Victorian England in a sumptuous defile from the house of Givenchy – a show that unveiled the first haute couture looks for the coming summer.
Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci has shown couture with menswear before, but rarely have the men’s collection and women’s ideas been so much in synch. Though the staging was very much a first: inside a magnificent reading room of the France’s National Library on rue Richelieu, which has been closed for renovations most of the current century.
Tisci opened with some great tailoring – a series of crisp suits and redingotes, some completed with mini kilts, all finished with naïve, childish buttons – in copper and later mirror. He then headed to the Rockies, though very much on his own terms, with bold plaids, souped up with Totem Pool imagery; excellent Tron-like padded parkas for partying in Aspen; followed by chunky sweaters covered in Yankee stars. It was instructive that on the day the United States inaugurated a man whose acceptance speech promised to “Put America First,” that an European artist was so inspired by a more plaintiff, open and inclusive America.
Tisci’s couture finale – opened in glory by Maria Carla Boscono and Kendall Jenner –was very much Annie Oakley gets invited to the opening of The Importance of Being Earnest in the West End. Beginning with the ankle-length schoolmarm tartan printed silk frocks with Elizabethan collars.
“American West meets a Victoria lady,” smiled Tisci, after his show climaxed with a stunning figure hugging pink concoction of lace, jacquard, fabric petals and peacock feathers. Let’s see which couture rival top that for beauty.