Givenchy F/W 2015

Riccardo’s Day of the Dead

Now that’s what we call a fashion show. A highly personal interpretation of Riccardo Tisci’s own obsessions, a curiosity shop view of fashion and a smart expression of quirky tailoring.

But, preeminently, a brilliant display of bold ideas and color at Givenchy. If one were to catch any show in menswear this season in Europe this was the one.

A Mexican carpet spiked Tisci’s fantasy Givenchy
A Mexican carpet spiked Tisci’s fantasy

 

Unfurled on a rambling, twisting red sequin catwalk with platforms and steps, before an audience sat on a pawn shop selection of chairs in wood, Formica, leather and wool, in a set composed of weathered busts, wrecked TVs and lost cabinets.

The red-sequined runway Givenchy
The red-sequined runway

The heart of the matter were the amazing primitive Mexican prints – used in gutsy redingotes, natty bombers and sleek tuxedos. Though, the big news was also the exact tailoring – crisp chalk stripe suits, done with fine woolen skirts –like a wrap around cardigan. A reminder Tisci is often at his best when not indulging his street cool tendencies.

 

When tailoring meets fashion Givenchy
When tailoring meets fashion

“It’s about all the things and ideas and friends I’ve been collecting over the years. And they all met today,” smiled Tisci backstage.

Plus a bravura performance by Pat McGrath – composing Day of the Dead faces – diabolic black and white skulls for men; or a mask that cried tiny seashells for one lady.

Tisci’s models always look approachable Givenchy
Tisci’s models always look approachable

 

Among the guys, ladies strode in a series of stunningly pretty semi-sheer chiffon and silk columns, the girls like the models obviously delighted to be in such a hot show.

 

We call it a cut off cardigan, not skirt Givenchy
We call it a cut off cardigan, not skirt

It was a perfect fashion night, except for the idiotically obscure lighting. Why fly Frankie Rayder across the Atlantic, dress her like a beautiful vision and send the lady out into utter under the volcano ash murkiness?