Givenchy F/W 2016

Round ‘Bout 6AM in Metal Moroccan

This show by a French couture house was about its Italian designer Riccardo Tisci’s love of Berlin – especially those moments about 6AM in a very darkened club.

And the kinkier the better, as was clear from the invitation’s saucy photo of a gal in fishnet stockings and nothing else, covered up with a daub of pink.

The same kissing of which the entire set and lighting was made at this important show. Important because of the way Tisci fueled the collection with teenage energy and urban party tailoring.

Cuban heel pony skin boots

Take his color palette – not your usual black but fiery brass cowboy belts or battered cooper studding – all spread over Sheriff’s jackets, see through rambler’s chiffon shirts and mean Edwardian undertaker redingotes. Even a half dozen women’s couture passages glistened in copper.

Nylon flight jacket
Nylon flight jacket

Put together with lots of unexpected materials from burnish Cuban heel pony skin boots to Donegal tweed coats. Amidst the resurgence of logos, Riccardo plastered the brand name over padded nylon flight jackets, some cut like marquetry in the form of human musculature.

The Berghain cowboy
The Berghain cowboy

Men’s fashion has been dominated with appliqués and Western motifs this season, but Tisci looked to the rebellious aesthetic of the giant after-hours techno clubs of Berlin.

“I’ve been spending lots of time in Berlin and I love their sense of freedom; their dark, earthy Germanic colors. Plus this is my own take on Metallic and Iron Maiden,” winked Tisci, a swirl of editors sweeping around him, seconds after posing for Asap Rocky.