Giorgio Armani S/S 2017
Mr. Armani takes a mini vacation before the shows and came back mighty strong on the runway
No one does subtle colors better than Armani, who in a moment of a psychedelic color palette revival send out the most muted, and even distressed, choice of fabrics ever in his signature menswear show.
This final important show on the Milan menswear calendar was the latest collection themed around travel. It was almost as if Milan designers think half the world’s well heeled men are on sabbaticals. But, where his colleagues want their foreign travels to be all about self-indulgence and fantasy clothing, Giorgio prefers that the Armani gents turn up properly attired. There were no ties in this fresh and elegant collection but the heart of the affair was the slim-line tailoring.
In terms of cutting, Armani continues to impress – and how. He took the current classic short jacket, and re-invented it by making it a four-button statement; with each button placed just off center for a look that was elongated and very now. His famed non-colors were all evident: pale mud, washed out putty and faded sea blues. Just back from the island of Stromboli where he attended a local soccer match whose pitch was in all shades of earth colors. But where the day before Emporio had enough primary red to please a fan of Valentino, this signature collection worked in some wonderful dark pink herringbones.
The Italian master’s best statement in leather was a short safari jacket done in calfskin made to look like worn denim; his perfect looking shirt-jacket seemed composed off malleable plaster, his wonderfully draped linen pants the color of a dried out picket fence. In a word, this was a pure statement of earthy minimalism and all the better for it. Men’s trends may come and go but Armani is still the defining tailor of the past half-century.