Giorgio Armani F/W 2017
The architect of clothing
He called his latest collection Neo Classics, but it turned out to be anything but. Rich in experimentation, in terms of tailoring, construction and technique, this was a welcome reminder that the house of Giorgio Armani keeps breaking new ground.
Armani’s big idea? An eye-catching sleeve-scarf. Meaning a six-foot long scarf with sleeves at each end, which boldly accessorized over a dozen passages.
From a light ribbed knit version wrapped around a slim suit to a cable sleeve-scarf wrapped like a cobra across a model’s torso, to a shaggy Yeti concoction, enveloping Arnaud Lemaire, the veteran French model. The same Lemaire who closed the epic Emporio Armani show in Paris Bercy last October, when the Italian designer celebrated the revamping of his Paris flagship on Boulevard St. Germain.
Working proportions like an inspired architect, Armani opened with a flawless suit, a two-button crisp wool jacket over a double-breasted velvet gilet. With Milan dominated by short trousers, Armani took the trend on his own terms with a drop crotch, and a forgiving waistline. For chilly evenings, flowing top coats in sturdy velour; for a dramatic entrance a washed out burgundy shearling tunic, its buttons neatly hidden. Hard to imagine any guy not wanting this look in his wardrobe.
“Michele Placido once told me that when the greatest tenors sing the classics, they always add their own brave twists,” twinkled Armani backstage, as a series of models politely waited to pose for the ultimate designer selfie. A shot with Giorgio.