Giorgio Armani F/W 2015

Downton Armani

One of many great looks summed up the mood in a tremendous Giorgio Armani show Tuesday in Milan – a drop dead flawless speckled wool suit that was a timely lesson in modern tailoring.

Alpine lords by Mr. Armani Giorgio Armani F/W 2015
Alpine lords by Mr. Armani

The double-breasted jacket cut like a truncated frock coat, the pants sculpted with a low crotch – an artful meeting of ski pant and jodhpur. Worn with a knit waistcoat and faux alligator hiking boots it was also a reminder that great tailors can still create radically new gentlemanly attire.

 

Cutting the best suit in town Giorgio Armani F/W 2015
Cutting the best suit in town

The Downton Abbey soundtrack underlined that these were very much patrician looks, though imagined for a far more modern world than the cult TV series. Armani dresses for the elite – but not the post-Edwardian British nobility with their strangulated voices; rather for today’s assured leaders of sport and style. Like his old buddy George Clooney or the remarkably modest World Cup winner, and the planet’s best football goalie, Manuel Neuer, who sat smiling in Giorgio’s front row.

 

Pants low in the crotch Giorgio Armani F/W 2015
Pants low in the crotch

In the smoothest of shows, Armani sent out a series of couples, in several passages wearing almost identical, high-buttoned suits in steely grays and midnight blues. Perfectly coiffed, finely poised they again trumpeted that special ability of Armani – in his clothes, ads, houses and headquarters – to summon up a new universe of elegance.

 

The world’s best goalkeeper in GA with Achtung and Sepp editors Godfrey Deeny and Markus Ebner Giorgio Armani F/W 2015
The world’s best goalkeeper in GA with Achtung and Sepp editors Godfrey Deeny and Markus Ebner

As in his Emporio of the day before, Giorgio went rather Alpine. Wrapped in “double fabric” hyper luxurious cashmere and vicuna, made in somber urban colors they had a lord of the mountains quality. Armani spent his Christmas break sunning in Antigua, though this collection felt more a modern winter’s tale. And, even if constantly surrounded by scores of courtiers, Armani somehow remains apart from it all – an octogenarian fashion individualist ploughing his own path. The Derzu Uzala de la mode.