Giorgio Armani F/W 2015
One of many great looks summed up the mood in a tremendous Giorgio Armani show Tuesday in Milan – a drop dead flawless speckled wool suit that was a timely lesson in modern tailoring.
The double-breasted jacket cut like a truncated frock coat, the pants sculpted with a low crotch – an artful meeting of ski pant and jodhpur. Worn with a knit waistcoat and faux alligator hiking boots it was also a reminder that great tailors can still create radically new gentlemanly attire.
The Downton Abbey soundtrack underlined that these were very much patrician looks, though imagined for a far more modern world than the cult TV series. Armani dresses for the elite – but not the post-Edwardian British nobility with their strangulated voices; rather for today’s assured leaders of sport and style. Like his old buddy George Clooney or the remarkably modest World Cup winner, and the planet’s best football goalie, Manuel Neuer, who sat smiling in Giorgio’s front row.
In the smoothest of shows, Armani sent out a series of couples, in several passages wearing almost identical, high-buttoned suits in steely grays and midnight blues. Perfectly coiffed, finely poised they again trumpeted that special ability of Armani – in his clothes, ads, houses and headquarters – to summon up a new universe of elegance.
As in his Emporio of the day before, Giorgio went rather Alpine. Wrapped in “double fabric” hyper luxurious cashmere and vicuna, made in somber urban colors they had a lord of the mountains quality. Armani spent his Christmas break sunning in Antigua, though this collection felt more a modern winter’s tale. And, even if constantly surrounded by scores of courtiers, Armani somehow remains apart from it all – an octogenarian fashion individualist ploughing his own path. The Derzu Uzala de la mode.