Giorgio Armani F/W 2016

Master class in Tailoring

A competitive fellow, Armani generally does not invite fellow designers to his shows. Which in some ways is a great pity universally for men’s tailoring, since pretty well all of his colleagues would get a salutary lesson in tailoring from the quality of the cutting on display.

Perfectly tailored double-breasted jackets were seen on the GA runway
Perfectly tailored double-breasted jackets were seen on the GA runway

Take this season, where Giorgio varied from a rugged Alpine mood, to a newer striped down version of the jacket. This Italian gent sent out a half dozen double-breasted jackets which were the finest examples cutting this weekend in Milan. Cut to finished at the small of the back, finished with narrow sleeves, done in anything from two to eight buttons they were all impeccable. Each came in a different fabric from suede lambskin to crinkly chalk stripe cape; and, for good measure, he even included his latest take on his signature Beckham jacket, cardigan like cut composed of mauve felt wool.

Pork pie hats
The Giorgio Armani couple is gaining attention

Add on the swirling shearling parkas, way over the top two-meter long mohair cardigans, cracked marble print down jackets and a lovely wee pick of William Burroughs pork pie hats and one felt like a child in the candy store, so rich were the sartorially pickings.

But, above all, it was the languid assurance of the shapes that impressed most. In a word, when it comes to menswear Armani has been the creator of the defining silhouette of the past 40 years, and no serious commentator can contest that. Punto e basta. And the fact that possibly the best actor in the world Russell Crowe was there to witness it, just underlines Armani’s power.

Federico Marchetti and Russell Crowe backstage
Federico Marchetti and Russell Crowe backstage