Florentine Fashion Fever
Achtung Digital took a trip to Pitti Uomo to see the latest Raf Simons show and the 24 hours in the Tuscan city turned into a major fashion moment
Florence is home to many big brands such as Ferragamo, Roberto Cavalli and of course Pucci. Emilio Pucci launched his label in 1947 just like Christian Dior so it is one of the pioneering ready-to-wear labels from Italy. Laudomia Pucci and Massimo Giorgetti, the current designer, invited Achtung Digital to come out to Granaiolo, the company’s Tuscan headquarter right outside Florence to see what the company had come up with for LVMH’s Journées Particulières.
Working with curator Maria Luisa Frisa, they put on an impressive custom show with designs from Emilio and other designers like Peter Dundas or Massimo himself. Laudomia has also started an impressive student program with Central Saint Martins and ECAL in Lausanne propelling the brand’s archives forward. For example Giorgetti’s last skiing inspired prints were partly developed by the students. Also, it was impressive to see how Emilio Pucci’s use of scarves in his design process is still relevant today.
Back from the Pucci estate on a stroll through Pitti we saw the young Berlin talent Hien Le who was brought to Florence by Mini cars who have had the clever idea to work with young designers from all over Europe, i.e. Agi & Sam from London.
Apart from making sweatshirts for the car brand, the designers had the opportunity to bring their own collection with them and show them to the international audience. Hien Le says his philosophy is to focus on the essential and nothing else. Born in Kreuzberg, Le has a clever sense of coloring and his baby blue pieces with the pleat of the pant touching the pocket were an example of his impressive tailoring skills.
For its 90th anniversary, the trade show attracted Raf Simons with a runway show and Karl Lagerfeld with a photography exhibit. Lagerfeld took over the Pitti Museum which is now run by German director Eike Schmidt who hails from Freiburg im Breisgau.
Seeing Lagerfeld’s fashion opus next to Raphael paintings made for an impressive viewing and Lagerfeld was accompanied by Gerhard Steidl who hung the show for the designer using fancy Daguerreotype techniques. The output of these two creatives is simply phenomenal keeping in mind that Steidl just worked with Lagerfeld on a monumental show at Bundeskunsthalle in Bonn entitled Modemethode. It is hard to keep up with their projects.
After Karl had briefly hopped in to Florence via private plane, Raf Simons was the center of attention last Thursday night with his 20th anniversary show. Using the Robert Mapplethorpe archive as foundation, Simons kept things simple with signature oversized shirts and sweaters. He is the master of youth culture codes as his warehouse rave setting proved; he also put some of his favorites archive pieces from the past two decades on mannequins. It will be interesting to see what’s next for this Antwerp-based men’s brand, when Raf really takes on the Calvin challenge in New York.