Fendi S/S 2016

Asphalt Couture in leathers

Not so much an asphalt jungle at Fendi on Monday afternoon, more asphalt menswear couture. Staged on a mock, wet rugged street whose scattered pattern and pebbly finish was seen throughout this collection – billowing trench coats, cabans, boots and backpacks. This was a newer urban take on luxury for men by Fendi.

Simple élégance Fendi
Simple élégance

“It’s all about showing the techniques of the house,” smiled Silvia Fendi backstage, after sending out several of her signature works of morphed mode. By that we refer to the shortened A-Line dusters that began as lizard and finished at the waist as rawhide; or the remarkable donkey jacket – it looked as tough as elephant skin up top, as comforting as felt wool below the elbows.

This was a rugged take on luxury menswear. From mock construction boots to wide leg jogging pants to the delivery boy leather visors.

Fendi makes leather in summer plausible Fendi
Fendi makes leather in summer plausible

Fendi is certainly on a roll in the past few years; led by one of today’s unlikeliest trends – mini monster fur baubles as the must-have accessory. And, Monday saw the emergence of the latest little critter – a black and white fox Yeti, who comes with a knowing smile.

 Fendi Maybe this is not enough for a runway
Maybe this is not enough for a runway

Though the commercial key to this collection were the superb artisanal totes – again with the pebbly print used on the straps – the sort of finely finished article a young gent likes to buy, knowing he might still be using it several decades later.

However, this was a far from stellar Fendi collection – too banal the simple worker jackets; too conventional the trucker boots; too lacking in panache the overall display.