Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2016

Civilized Couture

Talk about a cultured fashion show. A blend of opulence, über rich fabrics, dandy embellishments and dynamite tailoring; Saturday morning’s Ermenegildo Zegna Couture show was a brilliant fashion statement.

 

The first look spoke volumes
The first look spoke volumes

Presented in semi-darkness, the models crisscrossed each other – appearing in impeccably cut double pleat pants; mini double-breasted jackets and tremendous jacquard coats. The cutting was highly inventive – like the sleeveless chalk stripe town coat completed with a chauffeur’s neckline. Most looks finished with exotic appliques, in a moody Edwardian moment, enhanced by the remarkable fabrics – from padded and indented silk to dense baroque wools.

Jacquards and emroidery suit the man
Jacquards and emroidery suit the man

“It’s gentlemen’s couture. That’s what I call it,” underlined Zegna’s designer Stefano Pilati backstage.

There’s always a Sherlock Holmes element about Pilati, though this season with a Dixon of Dock Green gravitas. Gents parading in chalk stripe capes worn over matelassé waistcoats. Each catwalker’s look finished with a numbered felt armband as if performing in a sporting competition.

Pilati does classic with a twist
Pilati does classic with a twist

In a word, Zegna Couture is the perfect marriage of a high-powered designer, whose skills were fully refined and honed at Yves Saint Laurent, meshing seamlessly with the legendary fabric mills of this family owned business. These clothes cannot be copied. And never will be.