Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2015

Stefano Pilati votes Green

Imagine Sherlock Holmes was an ecologist; or Beau Brummel signing up as a Green Party member and you get some idea of what marched down the catwalk at a sensational Zegna Couture show Saturday morning in Milan.

This look sums up Pilati’s work at Zegna: It’s fashion and it’s sartorial
This look sums up Pilati’s work at Zegna: It’s fashion and it’s sartorial

Or make that dirt field – rather than catwalk – seeing as Zegna’s creative director Stefano Pilati built a massive sylvan set – a forest of pine and fir trees, azaleas and rhododendrons, in a brilliant piece of staging.

Velvet suit with backpack
Velvet suit with backpack

Created very much for a wintery day, the collection was a brilliant vision of how ecologically minded gents might dress for the future. Voluminous coats, classy tweeds and elongated single-breasted jackets all came with a perceptible sheen. All the result of having been made with smart new material techniques.

 

Eco fibers make a nice shine Ermenegildo Zegna
Eco fibers make a nice shine

“I wanted a tiny bit more fashion forward.  And I invented this new demographic, eco-leaders. This is how I imagine them dressing for business and also ecologically. So, all the fabrics were carefully treated; from recycled yarns to plastic coated materials,” explained Pilati post show, in a freshly trimmed beard.

 

Typical Pilati detail Ermenegildo Zegna
Typical Pilati detail

Plus, the princely designer’s silhouette had dash – pants were nipped above the ankle with straps. Yet there was also a sense of gravitas – like a delicious parka with hounds’ tooth inserts topped by a signature Sherlock deerstalker.

 

Eco leader outfit Ermenegildo Zegna
Eco leader outfit

And talk about great knits – from sweeping cardigans, which like many looks featured built-in military style pockets.

 

Nonchalant grooming Ermenegildo Zegna
Nonchalant grooming

There was a time when Zegna staged its finely made gents tailoring in its cool modernist headquarters in south Milan before two score of photographers. Double that number showed up for this event, witnesses to how Pilati has taken Zegna to another level in terms of brand creativity and throw weight.

z7 Ermenegildo Zegna
Pilati’s giveaway for Zegna Couture, three stitches

All things considered, this colossal show very much branded Zegna Couture as the biggest show in menswear today. And then happy Pilati told us“ I just want to wear these clothes myself and I can’t wait to have them in my closet“