Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2015
Stefano Pilati votes Green
Imagine Sherlock Holmes was an ecologist; or Beau Brummel signing up as a Green Party member and you get some idea of what marched down the catwalk at a sensational Zegna Couture show Saturday morning in Milan.
Or make that dirt field – rather than catwalk – seeing as Zegna’s creative director Stefano Pilati built a massive sylvan set – a forest of pine and fir trees, azaleas and rhododendrons, in a brilliant piece of staging.
Created very much for a wintery day, the collection was a brilliant vision of how ecologically minded gents might dress for the future. Voluminous coats, classy tweeds and elongated single-breasted jackets all came with a perceptible sheen. All the result of having been made with smart new material techniques.
“I wanted a tiny bit more fashion forward. And I invented this new demographic, eco-leaders. This is how I imagine them dressing for business and also ecologically. So, all the fabrics were carefully treated; from recycled yarns to plastic coated materials,” explained Pilati post show, in a freshly trimmed beard.
Plus, the princely designer’s silhouette had dash – pants were nipped above the ankle with straps. Yet there was also a sense of gravitas – like a delicious parka with hounds’ tooth inserts topped by a signature Sherlock deerstalker.
And talk about great knits – from sweeping cardigans, which like many looks featured built-in military style pockets.
There was a time when Zegna staged its finely made gents tailoring in its cool modernist headquarters in south Milan before two score of photographers. Double that number showed up for this event, witnesses to how Pilati has taken Zegna to another level in terms of brand creativity and throw weight.
All things considered, this colossal show very much branded Zegna Couture as the biggest show in menswear today. And then happy Pilati told us“ I just want to wear these clothes myself and I can’t wait to have them in my closet“