Emporio Armani F/W 2016
50 Shades of Gray
Urban sportiness at its most noble at Emporio Armani, with all the gusto one expects from Giorgio at his best.
The designer spent the Christmas break in an extended vacation at his Antigua beachside estate; but he opened the show with ten skiers in EA7 gear – boldly graphic combinations of camouflage and Space Age silver sparkle.
No other designer has influenced how men’s suits are cut more than Armani, so his shows are always a bell weather in fashion. For fall, Giorgio cuts his jackets tight at the biceps and deep gorge at the chest; while his pants are hewn with reverse pleats and cuffed at the ankle. By the way, no designer anywhere has such a deep-seated abhorrence for skinny pants as this fashion emperor. All the suits – composed in pebbly grays and Prince of Wales – would flatter most any guy.
Though the heart of the matter were the great new bonded denim and lambskin casual bomber jackets and jerkins, climaxed by a tremendous astrakhan biker look that managed to be rocker decadent and billionaire patrician all at the same time.
“Technical tailoring for the digital generation,” was Armani’s opinion, just as he took his traditional bow before his army of lanky models.
He also presented a series of truly massive backpacks and weekenders; cut so large it looked as if the models were destined for a month-long hike over the Alps rather than a jaunt to St Moritz.
The sheer precision of the tailoring, and overall élan was a reminder that even at 81 Armani remains relevant.