DSquared2 F/W 2016
Johnny Rotten Goes Highland in Osaka
Any critic who trumpets an alleged victory for quiet sartorial elegance in Italian menswear shows, should get out of his bedroom more often and perhaps even check out the odd bar, club and restaurant in Milan.
For we have entered the era of mash-up mode, where the multiplicity of images in our Internet era and phone photo obsessed generation is now appearing all over the clothes, and indeed their construction.
Take the kick ass show of DSquared2 on Tuesday morning, where Manga comic wenches, posh Punks from Omotesando and bitter faced Samurai fought for attention on humungous padded silk parkas and puffer jackets.
In a power amp display by designers Dean and Dan Caten, we witnessed some great deconstructed tailoring; in particular a tails meets bolero meets kilt ensemble embroidered with jade; and a twelve- button matelassé Canadian. Judo pants cut as quilted skirts showed how boldly assured the twins have become when it comes to cut and line. Quite frankly, nothing remotely calm and understated here.
And you know when Charlie Brown is appearing on a Gucci catwalk and emojis burst out all over Fendi’s runway that understatement is the last thing anyone has on their minds in Milano.