Dolce & Gabbana
Milan’s Matador Moment
Dolce & Gabbana have always loved a mighty matador. Stefano turned up at last summer at the duo’s Eyes Wide Shut libertine ball in Venice attired in a bullfighter’s suit of light, and this season their menswear collection was a bravado display of coruscating chic.
They opened with some burly latter day toreros taking the runway in mini boleros, trimmed and piped with black passementerie, the same trim used later in hacienda sleek black suits and even on black court shoes.
Nor did the collection lack the realistic gore, as the duo sent out a series of boldly printed silk tunics featuring angry Miura bulls – nostrils snorting, horns flashes grimly determined to nail their rival and not just his red cloak.
Staged on a blood red wooden catwalk in their private show space, the event did not lack humor. Notably winning a round of knowing laughs with a buffed and beefy lothario in red boxing shorts and matching champion’s belt.
Few designers anywhere cut a meaner suit that Domenico and Stefano, whose signature high armpit, thin sleeve, surgically cut lapel and trimmed pant is one of menswear’s statement silhouettes. This Saturday, they even climaxed their Iberian moment with a regiment of sleekly suited models – two score of gallants in forty shades of red from satin rhubarb to aubergine silk to blood orange double-breasted twill.
50 shades of red | All photos: courtesy of nowfashion.com
Gory yet gutsy, witty but highly wearable, this was Milan’s most theatrical designers at their wackiest and wildest. And never short of a nose for trends, their polka dot suits and shirts were totally right on.