Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2016
Sergio Leone in Sicily
“It’s part of our house’s culture. It is our spaghetti western,” laughed out loud Domenico Dolce after he and Stefano Gabbana unveiled their first ever Wild West collection.
As ever, at any of this duo’s runway shows, there was a fully embraced theme. Johnny Guitar gunslingers, How the West Was Won homesteaders, grizzly rustlers, gnarly gold miners and badass sheriffs sauntered about the catwalk. It was a stony desert replete with sagebrush and cacti. The enveloping music was a series of signature Sergio Leone movie soundtracks.
What’s great about Domenico and Stefano is how they can mingle their own religious, rococo Sicilian codes with whatever inspires them in any particular season. So wild broncos and crossed pistols fought for space with suffering saints and golden cherubs.
One huge cacti in the backdrop carried a score of iPads and android phones – used by models on the runway to project images of editors on overhead schemes. One of those ideas, which must have sounded great at a planning meeting but was naff and even faintly annoying in the show.
That said, in a season already dominated by appliqués, it was great to see so many of them amidst the baroque glory of Dolce & Gabbana. Most beautifully herring bone coats exploding with cactus flowers, prairie roses and feral cats. The tailoring was classic Sicilian – with the broad lapels and nipped waists of the house’s DNA. But the Lincoln County Wars mood added real kick to this spaghetti western show. Though come to think of it, seeing as all these Clint Eastwood classic Leone’s westerns were shot in the southern Spanish province of Andalucía, why don’t the call them Paella Westerns?