Dior Homme S/S 2017
In one of his most conceptual Dior Homme shows, Kris van Assche creates a genuine fashion moment
The ghost of Johnny Rotten got a shower and has rarely looked better than in the latest Dior Homme collection staged with considerable pep in Paris this Saturday afternoon.
Straps all over half the opening looks; toggles and zips dissecting and detailing dozens of snappily tailored garments. As well as that favorite classic of The Clash, the gingham short with cut off sleeves, though never typically Punk, which was always based on a scrawny silhouette. Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche however ripped up that rulebook. His pants were cut forgivingly, ideal for an off-duty Olympic track star, or a hipster who can wear voluminous trousers. His most bravura look was a faded denim jacket and elephantine pants that was on closer inspection made of worn leather.
Van Assche worked the active sports ideas into inner-city hiker boots, though one had perhaps too many versions of the classic DM boot. “Everyone knows we can make a great modern suit. But I wanted something else on this runway. Nothing literal, but a mix of New Wave, Punk, Techno all put together with sportswear. That’s always been at the center of my philosophy“, said Kris Van Assche after the show.
Made in a set of twisting metal tubes and Pop Art colored lights, the set had a fun fair appeal. Which of course was right, seeing as Kris’ inspiration was his student days in Antwerp when he and his fellow students would hang out at the local fun fair in designer black. Van Assche very much in his comfort zone chez Dior Homme.