Dior Homme F/W 2015

Techno tailoring for today

Sometimes the true test of a collection and a talent is whether a designer can cut a suit, and empower it with a sense of style and a contemporary mood.

Which is precisely what Kris Van Assche did in his latest menswear show on a crisp Saturday afternoon in Paris. Staged impeccably amid all-black bleachers; the runway delineated by an orchestra playing The Landscapes by Koudlam.

 

A touch of denim gives the tailoring street cred Dior Homme
A touch of denim gives the tailoring street cred

This all lent a certain grandeur to a very polished array of clobber. Opening with sleekly cut redingotes and tails – normally meant for evening events – but, thanks to the unexpected proportions, such as mighty wide cummerbunds and unexpected detailing, like denim collars all ideal for anywhere from a board meeting to a cocktail bar party.

Most models sported floral badges, as did several members of the audience – culled from the very invitations, which featured a dozen plastic flowers.

 

Finely-cut suit with floral buttons Dior Homme
Finely-cut suit with floral buttons

Van Assche also sent out denim topcoats, elongated shearling waistcoats and a great tailoring quadruple done in a yellow violet print. All looks were anchored by of-the-moment leather sneakers, trimmed with the bright electric blue tracks and canary yellow studs for a fresh sporty feeling. “I call this techno tailoring and always with sneakers”, beamed Van Assche post show.

Van Assche always knows to show off his atelier Dior Homme
Van Assche always knows to show off his atelier

Van Assche can overload his collections with too many street style references, though not today, where he pulled off his most accomplished wardrobe for Dior Homme to date. Convincing cool for cats from the house of Christian Dior.