Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Fashion on Speed
“Hybridization,” said the quiet spoken Andreas Melbostad after sending out his latest ideas for Diesel Black Gold, the punchiest clubbing sportswear chic we have seen in eons in fashion.
Inspired by bike messengers in New York, where the designer lives, the look was layered and highly eclectic. Sweeping capes, over padded nylon jerkins, over microfiber T-Shirts, over patched leggings. Beefed up with bulky pockets, worn leather arm purses, mini pouches and decorative zips it had a whole urban warrior feel. In lesser hands this could have been a dog’s dinner of a collection, but Andreas has developed DBG into such an assured collection the whole ensemble looked fantastic. Precisely by keeping a tight color palette of midnight blue anthracite and Confederate gray the look was highly coherent. Plus, Melbostad is a great funky tailor – whole voluminous flight jackets and over-sized leather motorbike looks never engulfed any of the models.
“I just love the way bike messengers vary their look, mingling garments no one else would think of putting together for their all weather work,” smiled the designer.
Cunningly lit by Thierry Dreyfus and staged in a wrecked north east Milan warehouse with massive machine tools and presses lying around, this was a reminder when it comes to actually dressing warriors for the urban jungle Diesel Black Gold has few peers.
All together, a telling example of how a superior designer – when he is in the zone – can create a new fashion vernacular – cool, nomadic chic.