Denk Ich an Deutschland in der Nacht

Just before introducing the 37th issue of Achtung Mode we took a trip down memory lane to visit some old friends.

Roots are what makes a tree grow. In Achtung Mode Nr. 1 in September 2003, we took it upon ourselves to identify the most important German fashion designers. Shot by Frederike Helwig at Sacré-Cœur, the line up in the group photo featured from left to right: Lutz Huelle, Stephan Schneider, Marcus Soto, Markus Stich, Frank Leder, Dirk Schönberger and Bernhard Willhelm. Except for Soto and Stich, all still very much in business. Even better, in our new print issue we will introduce a much-awaited Top 50 list of Germans working in fashion. And surprise, many of them still feature.

Fast forward to March 2019, bringing the Fall/Winter season to an end, our editor Markus Ebner focused the last days in Paris to pay visit to our Achtung Mode Nr. 1 stars.

Bernhard Willhelm

In Achtung Nr. 1 we called out his “bright imagination”. Now, more than 15 years and 36 issues later, we took the chance to pass by Bernhard Willhelm and partner Jutta Kraus in their showroom on rue Martel in Paris 10th Arr. Here, is where they just celebrated their 20th anniversary. Still going strong and still creating “his own breathtaking world”.

„Bernhard Willhelm hat eine bunte Fantasie und lässt aus normalen Kleidern ausufernden Wildwuchs werden. Daraus entsteht eine eigene, atemberaubende Welt.“ / Bernhard Willhelm and Jutta Kraus at their showroom during the last RTW Paris Fashion Week.

Stephan Schneider

Then a hop over to Stephan Schneider in the Marais. The designer from Duisburg has updated his silhouette by adding urban items like wool caps in his signature exclusive fabrics. 

„Stephan Schneider ist ein Gesamtkunstwerkes, der auch jedes kleinste Detail selbst gestaltet, um seine neue Silhouette für Männer umzusetzen.“ / Our editor Markus Ebner catching up with Stephan Schneider during his last RTW Fall/Winter 2019/20 presentation in Paris.

Dirk Schönberger

Dirk Schönberger came a long way since we mentioned him in our first issue. After designing for Joop! and more than eight years as creative director for German sportswear giant Adidas he has recently been named new creative director of MCM. Reason enough for Achtung Mode to pay special attention to him in the upcoming issue since he is manning what we consider the most ambitious fashion project out of Berlin this decade.  Not only will he appear on our Top 50, but our deputy editor-in-chief Nicole Urbschat features him in her weighty column Im Augenblick.

„Dirk Schönberger nimmt klassische Kleidungsstücke auseinander und baut sie nach seinem eigenen Gesetz wieder zusammen, um ihnen modernen Glanz zu verleihen.“

Lutz Huelle

We called him a master of pattern cutting” – a title that Lutz Huelle today just as much owns as he did back then. Achtung Mode has featured him more than once in the past 36 issues. Recently he was announced as new creative director at Spanish label Delpozo and his own label Lutz is gaining more momentum with every season. Huelle and his fashion that is based on intelligence” made our Top 50.

„Lutz Huelle ist ein Meister des Schnitts, der durch seine Technik oft aus Alltagsobjekten tragbare Kleidung fertigt. Mode, die auf Intelligenz beruht und Frauen klug und schön aussehen lässt.“


Quotes appeared first in Achtung Mode Nr. 1 (September 2003).