Damir Doma S/S 2017
Creating a German fashion moment in Milan
When you grew up in Bavaria, were socialized in fashion in Antwerp, started your own label in Paris and then end up having a catwalk in Milan where you can really have your clothes made well, then you are bound to be able to express your vision in the way you really want and at the same time you make the coolest indy show in Milan.
Damir Doma was the unexpected highlight of Sunday’s shows, which is generally the privilege of Miuccia Prada with her men’s collection. Doma has clearly elevated his game since he has moved to Milan showing a concise line-up of sexy clothes for women and slouchy tailoring for men. Sticking to his off-color palette of curry yellows and aubergine greens with a heavy dose of black and white, Doma is a strong candidate to be Milan’s best artisan designer with his frayed selvedge edges on jackets and pants, his aprons and tunics and tribal neck chokers. It all worked, the casting, the fantastic abandoned show space and wonderful Nick Cave soundtrack.
He has established a very body conscious vocabulary for women with tight dresses with semi-ruffles and his men’s tailoring which always had a knack for bigger volumes has become more flexible so that this show had sportswear and elegant elements at the same time.