Coupe de Couture
The best Paris fashion season is the Haute Couture in July during a World Cup: Yes, it’s now!
Haute Couture is kicking off, the World Cup reached the knock out stages with a dazzling French victory against Argentina yesterday and a world-class performance by PSG player Kylian Mbappé. Weaving football and fashion together is what we love to do, so please enjoy this Haute Couture football jersey special by photographer Arturo Astorino and Evelyn Tye.
Asking designers to make their fashion version of a football jersey is a Sepp Football Fashion passion. Since 2002, our sister magazine Sepp has been trailblazing in connecting the two worlds of football and fashion. In our current issue we highlight an old jersey from Dries Van Noten for the Euro in 2008 and looking in our archives we have many special ideas from Donatella Versace of even Carol Christian Poell, fashion’s most secretive avantguardian.
But what could be better than to ask three Haute Couture designers to make a football jersey? We felt in a World Cup year everything is possible in Paris and voilà our fashion market director Evelyn Tye, who is Mexican and proudly supporting her team in the upcoming match against Brazil lined up three of her favorite designers for the feature all modeled by Paolla from Brazil at Marilyn Agency Paris. Clearly, at the time of the shoot neither was aware about the upcoming game.
Model Paolla bending the football in the most fashionable jerseys ever, styled by Evelyn Tye, directed by Walter Boï – all three jerseys were exclusively designed for Sepp Football Fashion by Schiaparelli, Ronald van der Kemp and Giambattista Valli
Schiaparelli Haute Couture
Bertrand Guyon is old school. A classically trained French Haute Couture designer who creates his magic at the storied house of Schiaparelli on Place Vendôme. For a moment the Paris Haute Couture season looked a bit too American with Proenza Schouler and Rodarte showing but a craft is a craft and Guyon has been living and breathing Haute Couture ever since he started with Mr. Hubert de Givenchy a quarter century ago. Hence, our request to make a jersey was met with enthusiasm. Guyon found it real fun to have nods here and there like there is an eye on the jersey to protect his player against the «evil eye». In proper Haute Couture speak he made a T-shirt in ivory scuba jersey embroidered with an esoteric and symbolic black and red flora and fauna. Of course, the “S” stands for Schiaparelli and Sepp.
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture
In a way the man of the moment at the Paris Haute Couture is this Dutch designer with his recycled Haute Couture ideas. A real fashionista and veteran of the industry, Van der Kemp with his 80’s vibe is very much supported by the equally 80’s crazy Emanuelle Alt who regularly shoots his clothes in her influential fashion bible Vogue Paris. Van der Kemp is witty, queer and clearly fearless as he gave us this interview about football, a sport he has no idea about.
Interview by Daphne Ablow
Sepp: Tell me about the jersey you made for Sepp?
Ronald van der Kemp: It’s like a couture version of the Empire uniform, it has black and white stripes, and we added gold and silver for the championship mood. It’s more like a minidress so it’s quite sexy, as soccer players look sexy in their outfits. And it’s made in beautiful silk, a couture fabric.
Sepp: When I say famous footballer, whom do you think of?
RVDK: Lionel Messi, because he’s so talented and a great soccer player. I like that he stays away from the drama that the top players usually have. He’s very clever that way. His humble attitude is very admirable.
Sepp: What can we all learn from football?
RVDK: Well, it’s incredible how much money they make, so I guess they can teach us how to make the most of your talent. I have a hard time myself doing that. And if you think about it, ballet dancers work probably twice as hard, but they don’t make any money at all. So footballers are very clever in that perspective.
Sepp: Would you say that Cristiano Ronaldo’s fake tan is better or worse than Mr. Valentino Garavani’s fake tan?
RVDK: I think you can’t compare the two of them. Mr. Valentino is who he is, he’s grown into his own personality. Whereas Cristiano Ronaldo is a famous guy who wants to look good. You can’t blame him, but you really can’t compare the two. Talent wise, in their own fields they are great, but I think that Mr. Valentino has made more beautiful things than Cristiano Ronaldo.
Sepp: Would you rather spend one year on a desert island with David Beckham or with Zinédine Zidane?
RVDK: I think I’d get along with David Beckham. I met Zidane once and shook his hand, he seems like a very nice guy, but I think spending time with David Beckham would be really interesting. He loves fashion, seems like a cool guy… and he’s cute, which doesn’t hurt (laughs).
Sepp: Would you say that footballers are rebellious girls like the ones that inspired your latest haute couture show in January?
RVDK: Hmm… no… because I think that most of them are not rebellious. They stick to what they have to do. Sometimes they create an image around them that might make you believe they are rebellious, but to me, they are not very convincing. They just wanna make money, I don’t think they act out of a personal commitment.
Sepp: Would you date an intense football supporter who watches every game, goes to the stadium, wears the jerseys and scarves of his team?
RVDK: I only once went to a football game and I loved it, it was exciting. But if the person’s world revolved only around football, I think I would have a hard time.
Sepp: Have you ever worn football jerseys?
RVDK: No, I don’t think so. At gym class in high school we had to wear something similar, but never exactly a football jersey.
Sepp: Do you think the mullet hairstyle has a chance to come back into fashion?
RVDK: Why not, on a girl it would look good, probably better than on a boy. In German they call it Vokuhila. It’s an abbreviation for “Vorne kurz, Hinten lang”, short in the front, long in the back. It sounds good, no?
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture
As a football player, Giambattista Valli would be Socrates, the legendary captain of the 1982 Brazil team. Why? Both are incredibly talented and fiercely independent. Valli is one of the only designers on the Haute Couture schedule who owns and controls his house, not belonging to a big group and benefitting from any economies of scale. And he wants it that way. He has found his shapes, signatures and most importantly a loyal clientele of international it gals who are devoted to his clothes, charm and wit. Often wearing a pearl necklace he has also found a unique style for himself. Socrates was the same, more looking like a university professor than a football player and known to be more likely to talk to his teammates about the significance of Karl Marx before a game instead of the next opponent. Valli made this GBV team jersey with floral motives and his signature curtain drapings.
PHOTOGRAPHY Arturo Astorino
VIDEO Walter Boï
STYLING Evelyn Tye
Assisted by Juliette Billy
Model: Paolla Rahmeier / Marilyn Agency