Costume National

Capasa’s Cool Comeback

The Italians have a phrase for it – In Grande Vena – meaning a creator, in sports, music or fashion, is in the zone. When they tap into a proverbially big vein, when they hit their DNA on the button and tell the watching world something new.

Costume National’s new stylish silhouette with full pants, Costume National
Costume National’s new stylish silhouette with full pants

Which is where Ennio Capasa was Saturday morning in Milan, with a collection that led us back into the halcyon days of the Sixties, even as his own collection reinvented that era. Thus David Bowie as a French Girondist dude in a dramatic black and white striped jacket with Space Age wide lapels was reborn as a sleek dandy, on a model in a similarly snappy jacket worn over a beige crepe shirt.

Capasa is always good when working colors, Costume National
Capasa is always good when working colors

Or the legacy of a violet velvet suited Keith Richards was revived in a fantastic all-purple fluid viscose playboy combo.

Burnt orange and dark pink underline the retro vibe, Costume National
Burnt orange and dark pink underline the retro vibe

“It was a period of great freedom, whose inspiration continues today. It’s one I have always loved, for its music, clothes and revolutionary spirit,” explained Capasa, standing before a honest-to-goodness mood board which mingled a gang of Sixties rock gods with images of his own collections from the last century.

The opening look set the tone for Capasa’s freedom chic, Costume National
The opening look set the tone for Capasa’s freedom chic

Ennio loves a long lapel; cutting them into rather brilliant twisted gabardine jackets and micro wool twill redingotes that rocked on the models, yet had enough sartorially polish to work on a contemporary guy. Especially one not afraid of color – seeing his punchiest single look was a burnt orange boy’s bolero and flared pant ensemble.

Costume Chic, Costume National
Costume Chic | All photos: courtesy of nowfashion.com

Anchored  by pointy rocker ankle boots and topped with western bandanas, this was Capasa and Costume National doing what it does best – gentlemanly rocker chic. Like we said, a designer in grande vena!