Capasa’s Cool Comeback
The Italians have a phrase for it – In Grande Vena – meaning a creator, in sports, music or fashion, is in the zone. When they tap into a proverbially big vein, when they hit their DNA on the button and tell the watching world something new.
Which is where Ennio Capasa was Saturday morning in Milan, with a collection that led us back into the halcyon days of the Sixties, even as his own collection reinvented that era. Thus David Bowie as a French Girondist dude in a dramatic black and white striped jacket with Space Age wide lapels was reborn as a sleek dandy, on a model in a similarly snappy jacket worn over a beige crepe shirt.
Or the legacy of a violet velvet suited Keith Richards was revived in a fantastic all-purple fluid viscose playboy combo.
“It was a period of great freedom, whose inspiration continues today. It’s one I have always loved, for its music, clothes and revolutionary spirit,” explained Capasa, standing before a honest-to-goodness mood board which mingled a gang of Sixties rock gods with images of his own collections from the last century.
Ennio loves a long lapel; cutting them into rather brilliant twisted gabardine jackets and micro wool twill redingotes that rocked on the models, yet had enough sartorially polish to work on a contemporary guy. Especially one not afraid of color – seeing his punchiest single look was a burnt orange boy’s bolero and flared pant ensemble.
Anchored by pointy rocker ankle boots and topped with western bandanas, this was Capasa and Costume National doing what it does best – gentlemanly rocker chic. Like we said, a designer in grande vena!