Alternative West Coast Cool
Fashion critics can be justly the objects of criticism themselves when they fail to get out of their offices, and limos, and actually show up and attend the runway show of as many designers as possible. And, mea culpa, I have been roundly abused by several colleagues who opinion’s I respect for failing to catch up on what Aldo Maria Camillo has been inventing as creative director of Cerruti 1881. It turns out they were right and I was wrong.
For spring 2015, Camillo attempted the delicate balancing act of dressing in elegantly; voluminous tailoring that is combined with a hefty does of athletic street style. And, overall, this was a thoroughly assured collection, which advanced the fashion vernacular; respected the house’s sartorial DNA and, best of all, had a certain poetic vision of gentlemanly dress that was truly refreshing.
“European tailoring with a mix of 80s retro sportswear,” explained Camillo, who confessed to being inspired by an early spring visit to Los Angeles, the modern day Mecca of alternative sport style.
Staged on a Place Vendome runway covered in beach mats, the show opened with a series of artfully draped double breasted fine wool suits that hung perfectly, and were paired with patch-work print silk shirts in bold mixes of California ad sign colors, paisley and abstract smears, the best of them cut with peplum hems. The mix extended to the footwear – leather golf shoes, cut out as sandals and made with 4 cm high cork soles. Comfortable, cool but also faintly wacky in the that Alternative West Coast way.
Not quite everything worked; quite why so many cut above the ankle pants had knot leggings peeking out was hard to comprehend. But this is a small quibble in a memorable collection, whose very zest and composure fully justified Aldo Maria Camillo’s burgeoning reputation as a designer of talent and influence. In a word, I am surely glad I finally showed up.