Céline F/W 2015

When heat hits the Céline runway

The most directional runway show of the last few years has been Phoebe Philo’s Céline. Her working woman’s wardrobe and attitude have been gold at the cash register for parent company LVMH and her sense of construction has nearly earned her the reputation as a minimalist. Less is generally more with Philo although in recent seasons, the colors have been coming on strong and the hems have become bouncy.

Adding to this new direction, she sent out a very heartfelt, nearly romantic collection today. But not Victorian romance as one would expect from an English woman but more the romance one finds in a tropical climate like Brazil. Maybe Philo has spent some time in Rio recently? The soundtrack of Caetano Veloso gave the first notion of a Latino vibe as his „Cucurrucucu Paloma“ warmed the sun-flooded show space.

Caetano Veloso, Brazil’s favorite voice, by Marcelo Krasilcic

Philo always excels in transforming her show spaces and this time it looked like a set for an outdoor garden concert of Veloso in a lush Rio garden. Multi-colored ceramic stools for the front row and the bleachers in faded red and white tiles made for a cool setting.

Franca Sozzani’s stool
Franca Sozzani’s stool

Philo always looks at interesting new ways to construct her looks. And again, just like the beach vendors in Rio offer their canned sodas in unorthodox ways, Philo’s opening look featured a perforated pyramid pant with florals, a tight-fitting, ribbed knit with front pockets and exaggerated sleeves, worn with hospital nurse, white sneakers. A cool and completely unseen before silhouette during this fall/winter season.

The opening look
The opening look
Beach vendor construction by Marcelo Krasilcic
Beach vendor construction by Marcelo Krasilcic

Also, all looks had buttoned white T-shirt backs, which looked perfect for a volleyball team on Ipanema beach.

It’s athletic, it’s cool, it’s Celine
It’s athletic, it’s cool, it’s Celine

Sticking with a sweaty vibe, many long satin-paneled shoulder-baring dresses added a subversive element to this show. Let’s not forget these clothes are meant for next winter.

It’s athletic, it’s cool, it’s Celine
It’s athletic, it’s cool, it’s Celine

And as always, Philo has established herself as the coat maker of the fashion industry so her multi-button silk georgette ones with detachable arms added a new twist to the outerwear staple.

The georgette silk coats stood out
The georgette silk coats stood out

Using a cast of nearly unknown models Céline knows how to keep it fresh and stay ahead of the game.