Calvin Klein S/S 2016
Graphic heatwave to stay cool
Calvin Klein menswear designer Italo Zucchelli likes to fool his audience. While you’re scratching your head when a jeans and white t-shirt worn with sandals and socks outfit passes on the runway, it turns out that this was actually an elaborate cotton jacquard made to look like denim. Is this the point of luxury men’s wear? No longer is it meant to help you show off that you can afford the expensive stuff like crocodile but you quietly enjoy the quality of your high-end fabric and nobody else will know except for the girl or guy who takes them off.
In a way this is a very Calvin way of thinking, subtle and subversive sex has always been part of the DNA. The butch and big models Zucchelli still uses, inject the company’s headquarters show-space with loads of testosterone.
But then Zucchelli is anything but subtle when he sends out the terrific multi-pocket jacket and cargo pants twice, one in khaki and one in black. Or delivering a mega good-looking military parka in olive and white. When it comes to driving home his message of precision tailoring, Zucchello can get rough.
There was a hint of Helmut Lang in the air with the parachute waist straps dangling from the opening looks as well as the palm print and the wave prints in multi color glazed nylon and cotton. But in the end what mattered here was the visual sleight of hand by Italo, one of fashion’s greatest fabric innovators – for men or women.