Calvin Klein F/W 2016
Alchemy and Dallas
Teenage pandemonium engulfed Milan fashion this season when Internet super hero Cameron Dallas attended the latest menswear runway show of Calvin Klein, where designer Italo Zucchelli unveiled his coolest collection this decade for the iconic American brand.
Teeny boppers attempted to rip invites out of distinguished editors hands, desperate to get close to Dallas who sat front row with a serious demeanor and enormous quiff. Just as the web has turned unknowns into global phenomena, a talented creator can transform a clever set of clothes into a great, which is what Zucchelli achieved this Sunday in Milano.
Turning base metal into gold has always been a biblical ambition and a worthy task for any designer, especially if your house’s DNA is modern minimalism. Dazzling metallics burst through this collection from the precise golden dusters and dashing burnished wingtips to the outrageously bold silver parkas and flight jackets.
“Not that many people know this but I have a small library of books on alchemy. But mainly I wanted to go to the heart of the brand; to its sensuality. Suits worn informally, bare chested, earrings and jewelry,” explained Zucchelli.
Zucchelli also got it right with a series of dry wool suits worn with sharply creased lean pants, and roomy double-breasted jackets with fabric covered buttons and great camel hair coats. In a savvy move, he showed these men’s looks on several iconic women models, like Maria Carla Boscono and Gemma Ward, a brilliant demonstration of his cutting and smart marketing move.
“That’s the universal power of tailoring,” smiled the Italian born designer, before we exited the show and a team of some 30 carabinieri held back over 1,000 screaming fans. In a Bay City Rollers moment, packs of them had invaded all the local courtyards convinced that their heartthrob had exited via a secret back door.