Calvin Klein F/W 2015
50 shades of Gray
In Ireland they sing of forty shades of green. In Italo Zucchelli’s world all the shades are in gray.
“It’s the only thing I had in my head the first day we started working on the collection. Gray! And every possible variation of it,” cracked Zucchelli post-show.
And talk about stretching the notion of gray. From mottled muddy gray, to cement hued snakeskins patterns, to shiny anthracites to the coldest of dry flannels. Throughout the designer conjured up an Expressionist sense of industrial design and retro futurist fantasy. And, though, this designer lives overlooking the Hudson River, there was a sense of darkest Berlin – midnight clubs, moody art exhibitions.
Zucchelli remains one of fashion’s greatest fabric innovators either for men or women. And, his finest moments were the impeccable swing coats composed of some remarkable new embossed charcoal leather and wool fabrics all finished with rather natty cheetah prints. The very materials added a grandeur and sense of depth that was most impressive.
The Italian designer also cuts a mean suit – strict tailoring for a well-buffed body. Done with two-button jackets and worn with Gotham gray crewnecks, tough chic futurist shades and jaunty Doctor Dredd military skull-caps they had lots of kick.
For his finale, Zucchelli captured a key mood in Milan – a reinterpretation of the future as dark yet somehow chic. Fritz Lang’s Metropolis, as if the workers all headed off to after parties once work was finished and not some dark factory. The future as black as night, but all the more fun for that reason.