Burberry Prorsum F/W 2015
Bailey’s Burberry hits the sweet spot of wearable cutting-edge men’s fashion
The brutal truth is that there are very few truly great menswear shows. But we were lucky to witness, even behold, one Monday in Hyde Park, at a ballsy haute bohemia Burberry Prorsum collection that made the trip to London all that more worthwhile.
It’s been a strong season in the UK capital, but this was very much the game changer. Thanks to its bulkier silhouette, excellent self-editing and subtle eccentricity we saw a sunny vision for the future. Quite frankly, no hipster wardrobe will be complete this fall without something from Burberry.
The big trend of the season so far is the shearling coat and designer Christopher Bailey sent out a particular strong line-up. Just the way he uses a scarf as a styling element, loosely bound and forming a big circle around the neck made for an edgy look. The Burberry man pulls off effortless chic, well, effortlessly.
Most impressively, the beautiful finale trumpeted mirrored fabrics – cut as snug wee tuxes, grand chic scarves and cool dudes waistcoats. And it turns out Bailey didn’t even visit India even if the clothes looked like he had been on safari in Rajasthan.
If the setting was familiar the mood was fresh, and indeed poignant. Most particularly a gloriously deep-throated performance by Clare Maguire, that included one song written specially for the collection. Backed up by a string quartet, a small choir and some huge acoustic guitar chords it was the latest savvy linking with UK rock culture that Bailey has made a leit motif of his reign at Burberry. Most charming of all; she was tracked down via Myspace. “Imagine, who still remembers Myspace,” chuckled Maguire post show.
Add in excellent felt totes, a series of rock star award ceremony animal print redingotes, sure-fire hit plaid scarves and a great new forgiving silhouette and you get the stand out show of the London Collections Men. The jury had been out on this fledgling season, but after this long weekend of 69 shows the fashion industry has rendered its judgment. The London menswear season is a hit and it’s here to stay.
“I love the idea of traditional and conformist but knocked off by bohemia. That should come through from the room to the music; everything from classical to T. Rex. It’s all about the idea of color and exuberance and decoration,” enthused the ever-boyish Bailey backstage.
He called the collection “Classically Bohemian” but it was really rather Craftily Cool.